Monday, February 26, 2007

Tenis y Tango



My time in Buenos Aires is almost at its end. Tomorrow morning I fly to El Calafate, Argentina in the Patagonia region to visit glaciers and be more of an actual backpacker than urban dweller. From there I will be on the move every few days, working my way north, into Chile, back to Argentina, up to Bolivia, over to Peru and eventually way up to Colombia.
The above photos are from the ATP tennis tournament I attended last week at the Buenos Aires Country Club. It was a gorgeous day and we saw 3 different matches. The bottom was taken yesterday at Parque de 3 de Febrero. I am happy and more tan than I´ve been in quite a while!
I am looking forward to a break from all this heat. Honestly it´s like Philly in the middle of August - deadly. The humidity hasn´t kept me from shopping though, another reason I really must leave BsAs. It is time to spend my money on hikes and national parks. More to come from the south!

Thursday, February 22, 2007

How about a little pokah?

Part of traveling alone is being both on the lookout for and open to random opportunities. Last night my new German friend Verena and I were simply planning to play some Yahtzee at the hostel and eat dinner on the terrace. A light summer rain closed the restaurant so we stayed in the bar downstairs and were joined by Chef Nicolas, who it turns out knows his dice. De hecho el tuvo dados calientes (hot dice). After winning decidedly (not much one can do when someone gets 2 Yahtzees) he taught us another dice game called Diez Mil (10 thousand). As we rolled and tallied points the lounge began to fill: the owner Manuel arrived with his business partner Hernan (honestly these men are insanely goodlooking), then another friend named Hernan who took over the dice for Nicolas who needed to take a shower, and a beautiful Italian girl and her friend the Russian girl who lives in Houston of all places and whose names I never quite mastered. We were invited to join the group for dinner and off we went.

We ate at a fantastic Spanish restaurant with incredibly rich food and wine. Among the languages spoken at the table were Italian, Spanish, English and every so often some German but not much. A Russian word or two may have slipped in but my concentration and comprehension were already thoroughly tested so I can´t be certain. There was much discussion of the glory of all things Italian, sports, Argentine men, how rare an American I am perceived to be, how much more food the men could possibly order and eat, poor Verena´s health (she is quite sick but rallied like a trooper!), and of course where to go after dinner. I had a brief moment of self-consciousness when I realized the other women had eaten very little and the men were still piling food onto my plate but I got over that rather quickly. Que rica!

The next stop was a pub around the corner from the hostel where they served STONE IPA from San Diego. I bought a round and toasted California just as I did when I saw the same beer in Taos, New Mexico with Liz Lombardi. The pub was crowded as most pubs are so we returned to the hostel and that´s when we started playing poker.

I really know very little about poker save what I´ve managed to pick up from Bravo´s Celebrity Poker Show, but I figured what the hell. I could fake it long enough to have fun and always I have the ¨No entiendo!¨card to play, pun intended. Manuel, the two Hernans and I each anted up $5 pesos and received a stack of matchsticks. All I can say is either I really am good at poker or these guys are not. I think it´s the latter. I managed to stay in the game, I was even winning at one point, until sometime around 4 AM when I lost my groove and subsequently my matchsticks. But I learned some new lingo, laughed a lot, talked shit in Spanish, y pase una noche muy divertida.

Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Birthdays and Bike Rides



I had a really fun ex-pat 31st birthday. We ate and drank and ate and drank late into the night. I remembered at one point that the last birthday I spent abroad was my 21st and I was in Madrid. Funny how things work out, no? This morning my friend Verena and I took a free bike tour through the city. The company called our hostel looking for 2 chicas to take the tour and participate in a promotional video piece they were making. We´re not sure if this video will be on the news or online, but I am making the waves somewhere in Argentina! It is a beautiful day and the guides were both fun and full of facts. Not a bad way to spend a Wednesday.

Monday, February 19, 2007

The Travelers

I have met a wonderful group of travelers in my Buenos Aires Hostel. There is a lovely couple from Scotland, Rachael and James, who have a mere 3 weeks left on their year-long journey. Rachael´s friends Natalie and Alex joined them last week and they are all incredibly fun and charming. Last night they helped me toast my birthday at midnight and tonight we are celebrating with a BBQ at the rooftop terrace of the hostel. They have also insisted I come to Scotland as soon as possible, and if I can manage it somehow that would be in August! There is Verena, a very sweet German girl in my room, and the New Zealand couple Josie and Paul. Somewhere in their 50´s, they are taking 8 months to travel throughout South America and speak barely a word of Spanish. I at times have trouble understanding their English!


My local connection Gabriela, Gaby, is a sweetheart! Thank you JT for putting me touch with her. She referred me to my boutique hostel which is lovely and perfect and cheap! She has taken me out with her friends and shown me the town and I just adore her. Traveling alone isn´t as lonely as I thought!

Futbol fever



Yesterday I experienced my first professional football match. The local Buenos Aires team, Boca Juniors, versus Rosario. It was insane, and a lot of fun, if hot and a tad unnerving when the opposing team´s fans started chucking things from the section above. In the end the match was tied and I got a huge lesson in the world´s most popular sport. For example, I learned who Marradona is (I spelled that wrong for sure), a legendary player from Buenos Aires who was in attendance as a fan. The Scots I was with were incredibly impressed by that so I naturally went with that vibe as well. Yesterday´s match was also the premier game for Requelme (again, do not trust my spelling), a local boy who had been playing in Spain but has returned to play for the home team. In the end the match was tied 1-1, an apparently acceptable if not desired outcome.

On Wednesday I am taking a ferry over to Uruguay for one night. I´ll return to Buenos Aires for another five days or so and then I plan to fly to Patagonia in the south.

Today is my birthday and in Buenos Aires the sun is shining and the sky an outrageous shade of blue. I am counting my blessings today and they are numerous, 31 years of living and love and good people to share it with. PEACE and MUCH LOVE to all!!!

Saturday, February 17, 2007

Todo es bueno en Buenos Aires!

I finally got my blog to work! Tonight we are going to celebrate Carnaval Argentina-style, although I am still uncertain as to what that will entail. I feel confident stating it will be a lot of fun, muy divertida! Still no luck with the photos but I will keep trying. I am taking the ferry over to Uruguay on Ash Wednesday, staying for just one night, and then returning to Buenos Aires until Feb. 25. I´ll be flying to Patagonia that day and then working my way north. I confess I adore the life of a traveler!

Besos a todos! xxx

Saturday, February 03, 2007

All those irregular verbs...


My Spanish classes were great. Conversation, vocabulary, and grammar, grammar, grammar. I had totally forgotten the imperfect tense, the condicional tense, and the ever difficult subjunctive. The amount of irregular verbs is almost unnerving, and yet I am completely falling in love with this language again. They have such beautiful ways of expressing things, and despite all those tenses I am truly enjoying myself. The school provided me with lots of worksheets (worksheets! It's been a while.), I am trying to read the local newspaper every day, and of course listening and talking to anyone willing to be patient with both my struggles to find the right word and inability to comprehend most of what they say. Give me another few weeks and I'll be cruising en Espanol!

Thursday, February 01, 2007

How many people can you fit in a cab?

this is a quick one. Yesterday I took a private kayak tour of the isletas in Granada. We spent about 3 hours paddling around, passing children swimming, fishermen, and tourists in motorized boats, not to mention all the wildlife. No serpents or crocks I am happy to report.

Anyway, after the tour, the guide and I waited for the taxi to come back for us. It arrived and we climbed in, when out of nowhere a family of 6 appeared at the driver´s window haggling for a ride and the right price. Somehow, some way, the parents and their 4 children found space in the cab and off we went. Just a happy little group of NINE people in what has to be one of the world´s smallest cabs. It was awesome.